We started for the Darshan of Vaishno Devi temple at midnight of 17th August. We were already tired from a one and a half day train journey from Indore to Jammu; further taking a taxi ride from Jammu to Katra. Temple of Vaishno Devi is 13 kilometers from the town of Katra; where anyone who wishes to go for the Darshan has to stay. It was a pleasant weather and was dark all around. We anticipated cold though. Knowing that we had a tough journey ahead of us, we, a group of twelve people (family and friends), started.
Before even the actual start of the long walk, we faced many obstacles. At the big marble gate of baadhganga, there were a lot of people waiting. We bought the flimsy plastic raincoats which were very cheap (20 INR). As we were about to start, several lots of people began to emerge who were apparently returning after their Darshan. Most of them looked tired, scared and anxious. We heard rumors that there were lakhs of people for the Darshan and their had been a landslide which injured several. Some even said that there is no count of the number of kids which had fallen into the huge trenches surrounding the mountains. This sounded scary, although we could sense the exaggeration. Next, we went to get our yatra slip stamped. The attender there advised us not to go. He repeated the things we had just heard.
We were in a state of dilemma as to go or not. We had gone there covering the distance of 1500 kms! We could not just turn back now. But then we had a sick child in the group and three aged persons. We were confused. We asked random people if they had continued till the end, was there a lot of crowd, did the landslide really happen? Some said they had returned halfway because of the crowd, some were forced to return for the sake of their children or parents. Everyone said there was a jam. Scared white children faces were all I could see. Out of many, one guy said it is true about the crowd but it isn't impossible; he for one would've waited for six days but wouldn't return without the Darshan. He said it is a tough time and Ma is awake, waiting for you. This gave the strength we needed to go on.
We then set foot for the walk without so much as a hint that it would take us to the temple exactly after 12 hours!
It was not easy, to coordinate between twelve people who all have different opinions and views, to progress hand in hand. Things don't always turn out the way you imagine they would. We decided to rent horses so it would be easy for everyone (all those who intended to walk, could do so peacefully).
Three of us, despite renting horses had to stop just as we covered less than a kilometer. There was a police check and they denied any horses beyond that point. No matter how much we requested, they didn't let us move forward on the horses; their argument being 'we cannot risk lives of twenty people for two' ( I had pleaded them to let Nani and aunty to board horses because of their age). I think they were right in their decision. Nevertheless we kept going after a heated argument with the ghodawaalas regarding the charges (they demanded a lot of money, more than that was ethical). We waited for the other people of the group to catch up and beheld the view that was in front of us! Shimmering lights in different colors shining in the darkness! That was a view to remember. After everyone reached us, we continued walking. Keeping pace with every step seemed difficult. We kept taking breaks, having tea/coffee on the tiny gumtis on the way. I also had a dose of red bull (which helped me go on I think!). There were flight of stairs to cut the way at many points, sometimes we chose them and sometimes we preferred to walk the uphill road as it seemed easier.
It started getting even tougher with every step. We were encountering groups of people from time to time who were on their way back. We were tired of asking the same questions about the Darshan over and again, so we barely interacted with any of them. Finally, close to dawn, we reached adhkuwari which is almost halfway to the temple. We all breathed a sigh of relief. It was comforting to know we had made it that far, it also gave us hope that we could go all the way. We rested for a while, the family with the sick child decided to wait for sometime at the resting area with an understanding to rejoin later. The rest of us walked on. We even found two horses which we immediately rented for Nani and Aunty.
Now came the twist in the story, the straight path from adhkuwari to the temple was closed due to the landslide so we had to move on an older, tougher and steeper path. But well, we could not turn back then. So we kept moving forward. We gradually dispersed in two groups of three people each and continued walking with small intervals. The way seemed never ending and tougher by the minute or should I say by the step. But being so, it grew more and more beautiful! The views were breathtaking, I can still remember the purity and joy I felt just standing at those places! Till adhkuwari, we had encountered several shops and kiosks for food, beverages and water. But further, such kiosks became scarce. We could barely find mineral water. We kept hearing of the landmarks haathi math and sanjhichhat and hoped that we would get something to eat there. Haathi math came and gone, but there wasn't much there. Walking a little farther, around 8:30 am we came across a food joint aka bhojanalay established by the shrine board near sanjhi chhat, which only served five or six items (at very cheap prices if that is a consolation). We ordered a plate of rajma chawal, tea and biscuits. The rice were raw and a little hard, but that was one fulfilling meal! Being as tired as we were, we could've gulped down anything! After the rewarding break, we could move a little more easily. Although we still had some good kilometers to walk, we were motivated. We found another horse and another one of us took it.
After some meters, the road became evener and it was comparatively easier to walk. Although since we had already walked around 10 kilometers, every nerve in our leg was hurting. But hey, we did cross a long way, we could go a little farther. We kept on walking and walking until we could see the bhawan, which was still around 1-1.5 km far. There was a huge waiting line too, almost half a kilometer or more but coming that far, anyone can handle that!
We removed our shoes and belts and watches and kept them at a shop (after giving him a hundred) to save time; otherwise we would've had to reassign ourselves in the line after depositing the said stuff at the required counter. We progressed with the line, slowly. There was a calm expression on most of the travelers' face; after all they were about to reach the destination, facing all the troubles without giving up. There was peace.
I became acquainted with a few people. One couple I particularly remember, from Chennai. The guy was a chartered accountant (which I'm aspiring to be) and his wife was MBA in finance; both worked in the same company. It was nice to interact with them, for what good are trips if you dont make any new friends.
We were just about to enter the premises of the temple, I made some space for those in our group who were elder to me (which meant all of them) and was the last of us to stand in the queue. I have this notion that one shouldn't enter a temple or any holy place for that matter, before their parents (especially) do. And the neighbors that I had went with are no less than my parents.
A little ahead, the enclosed area of the temple squeezed the three queues into one. I silently remembered my Parents, my Guru and my family members. Slowly the line kept moving and I saw an elevated platform. From there three Pindies representing Mata Saraswati, Mata Laxmi and Mata Kali could be seen. Adjacent to the platform was a cave, which I later was told is known as the Holy Cave. I was looking at the Cave when I felt a gentle tap on my head only to realize it was the Pujari who was sitting at the corner of the platform. He told me to look in the right direction, at the Mata. I brought my hands together, prayed and bowed. This was the moment! The final one for which we walked all the way! And believe me, there was peace.
Then I moved ahead so none of those behind me had to wait any further. We all slowly walked together at the exit route. Collected our shoes and stuff, and relaxed for a while.
We then tried to communicate with two companies who provided helicopters, but there were no vacant seats (surprise, surprise!). We also inquired about the time of the battery operated car, which was three hours later. We could not wait that long, we hadn't had a proper meal, we had walked all night and we could not just wait.
We met the family that had stayed behind and luckily they had taken the battery car on their way up which was necessary for the sick kid. They has even met up with an authority who gave them a special entry pass (yep, they are considerate). So, all in all, everything finally went in place.
After the Darshan, walking back was a piece of calk, well not exactly, but it was better than walking uphill. By then, the new path had also opened up (which we didn't get to take while going to the temple). We kept walking because if we hadn't, we could not have walked at all. Again we were split in groups, I didn't want to stop. I was walking at a fast pace, it was a slope so it was easier. On the way, we got to see the damage that the landslide had ensued. Without taking more than three breaks, we descended six kilometers.
Finally, we could see adhkuwari again where there were droves of horses! And was I glad to see them! But we had to wait for the remaining members, with whom we would cover the rest of the road on horses. So we just sat there, at the side of the road. We weren't alone, surely not! We waited a long time, just looking at people who were about to pursue the journey that we had just completed (most of it anyway) taking the better, easier path; I was not jealous at all, a little relieved for them in fact.
That's the thing for this yatra, you are all one big family. You smile at everyone who's trying to pursue the same path, knowing that you're not alone. Not alone to face the dangers and difficulties that wait for you on the way. Not the only one to endure. Not the only one to go on!
